Blown Outboard! CRAPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPP
 

Wide Open Throttle one second, dead the next after a rapid steady decline in RPMS. I can't tell if my issue is the result of oil/fuel starve or overheat but after getting home, I confirmed 120 PSI bottom cyl, 110 Middle cyl, and 30 top cyl. I took off the head and here is what I found. Does this look like an overheat situation to you guys (Paging TK Walker.... Paging TK Walker...) or an oil starvation situation? Trying to decide whether to rebuild or get a reman powerhead. I'm not afraid to rebuild it myself I just don't know if it will be worth my time and effort and money or if I can get it done in less than a week compared to a reman powerhead off ebay. Any thoughts? The model # is 90ETLJ. The overheat alarm was disconnected a couple years ago because it was going off all the time as a false alarm. STUPID STUPID STUPID.

It did, after sitting in the water for a little while, start back up but ran TERRIBLY. I used the trolling motor to get home and barely had enough battery.

It does look to me like the cyl isn't scored so much as the piston melted and welded itself to the cyl wall. It looks like metal on top of the cyl wall vs. a groove into the cyl material itself.

What all would be involved in this? Would I rebuild just the top hole or all 3? (PAGING TK WALKER) A reman powerhead on ebay is 1k - 1.3k based on a quick 30 second search. I haven't dug in any deeper yet.

Somebody tell me what to do!!!! (TK WALKER) Please!!!! I am determined to have this fixed before the end of the day Saturday 4/16. I have a 3 day fishing trip planned beginning Sunday. Any and all advice is welcomed. Thank You! Pix attached.

More Pix
 

pix

Man that sucks! hate that for ya. Glad you were able to get it back to the dock though.

Uummmmm <'TK><
 

Oil starvation by some account, manufactured power head is the way to go. As TK mentioned the gaskets are premium, replace the oil level indicator/switch in the oil tank to stop the false alarm.

*While your at it...call Hydro-Tec and add the tuner exhaust, Hi-Po head, check/block and rebuild the reed block and rebuild/re-jet the carbs (I believe all 90 and below are carburated) to account for the new fuel requirements. All that if you would like to add about 10/15 HP.

When I built my last Hi-Po motor it was a Yami 75hp tuned to 90hp+ and I could easily out run aluminum rigs with 115hp...sure wish I had that motor back.

I Thank you for the quick replies! This is a 1986 90 hp yamaha carburetor motor TK. I don't see any damage to the middle or bottom cyls but I will finish the teardown today for more info. It looks like I could get a gasket set for about 100$ or a rebuild kit with persons and gaskets for about $450 or if I wanted to gamble I could get the gasket kit one piston and rings for about 225. Here are the two powerheads from ebay. One is reman the other is used. I'm not really excited about either but bolting one on would sure be nice.

Btw... the top cylinder walls are dry compared to the bottom two still wet with fuel and oil. I agree it looks like oil fuel starve but when I removed the cowl she was pretty warm to the touch up top by the stat hooks housing. However... Pete stream was as solid as ever even when just cranking it with the starter.

If I decide to rebuild mine do you guys know of a machine shop that could do the machine work quickly? I could get the parts to someone this afternoon or tomorrow. Could anyone get them back to me in a day or two? Also... how much should I expect for the machine work bill?

Thanks again. I apologize yet again for hijacking the fishing forum. Feels free to move 've this thread if needed.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-75-85...BWQRGM&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1985-Yamaha-...VW-tzd&vxp=mtr



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Dude....Let me know if there is anything I can do to help you with it.

Just a note...chances are your main and rod bearings are trashed as well. I suggest you get a re-man power head and go from there. Resizing the crank will require a significant amount of time, money and scheduling in a local machine shop if they will do it.

What oil do you use???

*Only recommended machine shops in 100 miles: http://huntsvilleengines.com/
"Eddies" if he is still in business in Springfield, Tn. if he will accept the work (race engine shop)

Replace Powerhead <'TK><
 

Tear Down Completed - Photo Album Created
 

TK - Do you see anything in these photos that would scare you out of re-building this? Clearly the # 1 CYL and Piston are toast. Do you see anything in the crank and crank bearing pix that concern you?

https://goo.gl/photos/FCtvwgrWMd3SmqDF8

Yama ... <'TK><
 

:)JK, It is hard for me to trouble shoot or make a diagnosis/Analysis by looking at pic's... Folks call me all the time and want me to trouble shoot over the phone ... For me it it is like drinking a Heineken, I have to hold it feel it, smell it and put it against my cheek...

What does the color of the #1 crank journal look like is it discolored (Black ?) since your pic's aren't ID'ed it is hard to determine ... I take it you are contemplating rebuilding ... I think you are capable, but you won't meet your dead line ... <'TK><:)

What oil do you use? And does it mix or do you premix? Looks like that hole went lean. You may still find pics of mine that blew a hole the size of a 1/2 dollar in the #2 piston, so I feel your pain.... Good luck and hope you get it done in time.

I bought a used powerhead that will arrive today. I still plan to re-build mine but this will get me on the water this weekend (I HOPE!) without rushing through the re-build and regretting it. I'll sell one of the two after I rebuild mine.

After taking my motor to a few "experts" the consensus is the failure was not due to oil but due to a lean condition in the top cyl causing detonation/pre-ignition and internal overheat. No signs of water pump or cooling system failure.

I'm going to start running high octane fuel and non-Wal-Mart oil for cheap insurance.

I am certainly no mechanic, however, if a lack of fuel/oil mixture in the cylinder caused the problem the brand of oil would not matter.

I'm wondering what caused the lean condition in that cylinder only?

"I am certainly no mechanic, however, if a lack of fuel/oil mixture in the cylinder caused the problem the brand of oil would not matter."



If you're not a mechanic then how would you know the type of oil wouldn't matter?

Funny story, I argued with a police officer for over an hour one afternoon about oil, he had just stopped where I was parked and asked had I done any good, which went on into a conversation about boat motors at some point. The argument started when I asked what oil he used in his (much bragged about) Allison with a 200 merc, to which he happily bragged he uses the $12 a gallon blue bottle stuff at walmart and that I was a fool to pay the $30 a gallon for the stuff I use.... Well, I ran into that same guy a few weeks ago, him saying just ordered a new power head I couldn't help but ask why? Clotted up blue bottle oil in the carbs leaned out 2 cylinders, one of which looked similar to mine in the picture he showed me.... He has now seen the light... I'm not saying it will happen every time, but just like with anything else, sometimes you get exactly what you pay for.

Me Too! I cleaned the carbs last night as I've been told it's possible apiece of dirt blocked the high speed jet which makes me nervous it could/will happen again! I'm going to add an additional in-line fuel filter when I put it back together.

Yep, I was thinking that maybe one of the jets got clogged. Good idea with the in-line filter.

I suppose you now know why I am not a mechanic.:)

Once again I will show my ignorance against your superior knowledge. I have never seen outboard motor oil clot as you described. Sounds more like trash got in the fuel since it did not clot in the other cylinders as well.

It's here!
 

Used outboard is here. Carbs are cleaned. New base gasket is here. Base is cleaned and ready for install. I have to work 1/2 day this morning but I'm pumped to get this thing going again this afternoon! Keeping my fingers and legs crossed that this used powerhead isn't a hunk of junk. It certainly looks clean and I can tell it's never been split apart.

I always ask the oil question, not that in his case I thought it was the culprit either really. Most of the time cheap oil carbons up in the ring lands and causes the ring to catch in one of the port windows, which breaks it and then the caca makes contact with the oscillating wind maker as the French say.... I generally ask the oil question to gauge the person, 90% of the cheap oil guys you can't tell them anything about anything, so there isn't much point in trying to help at all.... Sorry if I had a rude rebuttal to your reply, The real point is hopefully JK gets his boat going in time, I've been there and it sucks...

Back in business! Buttoned up the install Thursday a including a water pump assy with housing and cup. Started it first thing this morning in a trashcan full of water and it idled great. Borrowed a timing light and set the timing to factory specs. Then off to the lake. That's when it got weird. She shot out of the hole great but fell on her face after about 10 seconds. Troubleshooting all day and finally at 11:30 I took the factory canister fuel filter apart and sure enough... I had put the cartridge in upside down blocking the flow of fuel. Flipped it over and we're ready to go. My brother in law will be leaving Missouri in the morning and will be glad to hear that he won't need to drag his boat the whole way here. I'll be taking it easy more often than not moving forward. I am running 93 octane with yamalube oil and Lucas additive. 3/4 throttle or less. I don't have thousand dollar bills just laying around for this crap to happen again.

Can't wait to fish! I can smell it!

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Great Job ... <'TK><
 

JK, you dah man. Glad that you are up and running again.

You are a rookie at being rude. Just look at some of Merv, Juice or Jimmy's responses. :)
JK's has some talent. He is up and running.

Being rude us an art. Me, Juice, and Jimmy are just masters of our craft!

I've not had a single reply in this board and I get drug in by Merv and Sambolie! For what it's worth I run the extended life yellow jug of oil In my motor. Never had a problem. I run cheap ethanol gas and cheap oil. I guess my boats like me, a cheap ass! Good work with the motor by the way.

I can assure you I play at a level in the top ranked pro leagues... But, it always winds up with me getting banned from the forum, which are trophies I have more of than I care to mention... I've just found if it's a forum I like the content of and maybe occasionally have something to offer to, I'm reluctant to suit up and play ball, sometimes I don't know when to quit.

What I consider cheap is the $12 a gallon blue jug special at Walmart, Pennzoil makes a pretty decent oil.

So joking aside.....does anybody here do all the "recommended" engine treatments like sea foam or injector cleaner, ect every fill up? I know if you run ethenol gas you should add a treatment to preserve the gaskets, ect but what about the laundry list of other stuff available to prevent build-ups, deposits, ect?