Replacing Bunk Boards & Carpet

[jprism]

Today I noticed while putting the boat back on the trailer that the front left bunk board had lost the bolt holding it in place. Upon further inspection I found that the board had rotted and that's why the bolt come out.

Just wanted some opinions on whether anyone has replaced their on boards and carpet and if so how hard of a job is it. I presume that pressure treated wood is the best to use and I have found a supplier for carpet 8in x 12ft. It appears that my existing bolts were lag bolts that simply screwed in from the bottom approx 1 inch into the bunk. Would it not be best to install a countersunk bolt all the way through the board with a washer and nut on the bottom. This would not put as much pressure on the bolt itself.

Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks Jim

[Pookie]

Pressure treated is NOT what you use. The copper in the wood and the carbon steel in the trailer (being dissimilar metals) will cause you problems. Instead, use yellow pine and treat it like you would a house...prime it and put 2 coats of paint on it to preserve it. Then use the carpet.

[Buccaneer]

Rather than going back with carpet use these synthetic bunk board covers - http://www.gatorbak.com/
They work great.

[bfish]

JMO, but if your going with synthetic covers, might as well go all the way and synthetic board. I know I am going synthetic when my current wood boards rot out.

I have heard good things about these:
http://www.ultimatebunkboards.com/

[TNtroller]

New bunks are not hard, use one of the existing bunks to build two new ones (or however many needed) at the house/garage, go to the ramp during the week so you can leave the boat tied up at the dock, take all the tools needed, and replace the bunks in the ramp lot. Just clean up your mess afterwards. If you have a tin boat, don't use PT wood, as the chemicals in the wood will leech thru the carpet and cause pitting in the hull over time.

I used pine 2x4's, 2 coats of rattle can paint, then pre-drilled the holes for the bolts, I used T nuts instead of lag bolts this time, then bunk carpet from BPS, Academy, etc., attached with SS staples, loaded 'em in the boat and off to the ramp on a weekday after work, ramp lot was empty.

If the synthetic wood referred to is the composite stuff used for decks and such, I've read where it does not have the structural strength to support the boat over the distance the bunk will span between supports on the trailer. The composite stuff will bow and sag in a short time frame, and is not cheap to buy. Pine 2x4's and paint are cheap, takes a couple hours to do and can replace 'em as needed.

[bfish]

....

If the synthetic wood referred to is the composite stuff used for decks and such, I've read where it does not have the structural strength to support the boat over the distance the bunk will span between supports on the trailer.........

It is not. At least ultimate bunk board that I link is UHMW (ultra high molecular weight) plastic, which is much different than plastic decking.

[Dakota]

I did this about three years ago. I just Took an old board into Home Depot so I have the exact shape and size. That's what a boat dealer suggested. Then used bass pro trailer carpet stapled to board re-bolted. When I re bolted I just made sure I had the proper angle it was tedious time-consuming.


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[aero320]

New bunks are not hard, use one of the existing bunks to build two new ones (or however many needed) at the house/garage, go to the ramp during the week so you can leave the boat tied up at the dock, take all the tools needed, and replace the bunks in the ramp lot. Just clean up your mess afterwards. If you have a tin boat, don't use PT wood, as the chemicals in the wood will leech thru the carpet and cause pitting in the hull over time.

I used pine 2x4's, 2 coats of rattle can paint, then pre-drilled the holes for the bolts, I used T nuts instead of lag bolts this time, then bunk carpet from BPS, Academy, etc., attached with SS staples, loaded 'em in the boat and off to the ramp on a weekday after work, ramp lot was empty.

If the synthetic wood referred to is the composite stuff used for decks and such, I've read where it does not have the structural strength to support the boat over the distance the bunk will span between supports on the trailer. The composite stuff will bow and sag in a short time frame, and is not cheap to buy. Pine 2x4's and paint are cheap, takes a couple hours to do and can replace 'em as needed.

That is how I did mine. It will be easier than mine because you are replacing the wood. Taking off the old carpet and removing the old staples was a big job.

Be sure to use stainless steel staples! I had to order them from Amazon.

[TNtroller]

SS staples can be found at the big box stores or a well stocked local hardware store, use some longer ones as the carpet is a somewhat thick, and you need for the staple to get a good bite, you have 1.5" of wood there.

[tkwalker]

I did this about three years ago. I just Took an old board into Home Depot so I have the exact shape and size. That's what a boat dealer suggested. Then used bass pro trailer carpet stapled to board re-bolted. When I re bolted I just made sure I had the proper angle it was tedious time-consuming.


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Leave the adjustable angle bracket lose .. Snug but not tight .. When you put the boat back on the trailer it will conform to the boats bottom ... Then tighten the angle brackets ... <'TK>< :)