Weighing the bow down

[Flatline]

Something I have found with my new boat is the bow wanting to ride high when trying to run around 15 to 20 mph, even with the trim down. Has anyone ever tried putting some weight in the front to help keep the nose down ? I mean it planes nicely, but I don't want to have to run 25-30 mph all the time.. any suggestions ?

[Heiny57]

Store your heavy stuff up front if possible. All boats level off at different speeds and trim settings. I wouldn’t add weight to change things.

[Flatline]

At 17' 7" long, I'd of thought the boat would be long enough to keep the nose down. When I say high, I mean a good 45 deg or more. I wonder if a whale tail would help ? The BT salesman told me I wouldn't need one as have a big enough motor and it will plain out quickly, which it does, but I don't want to run around 3/4 throttle all the time if you know what I mean

[bfish]

Move your batteries as far forward as possible. Gas tanks can be moved too. Both are assuming that your motor doesn't need shimmed and you have fine tuned your prop (4-blade is often better than 3-blade for keeping the bow down).

[Texas_Rig]

If you want to run less than 3/4 throttle just go ahead and punch the throttle as to plane out. After you've planed out Then you throttle back and you should stay on plane without your nose being too high.

[FishAddict]

You may want to give this a little time, I hated my current rig when I first got it nearly 15 yrs ago. I had an old ProCraft and you could about stay plane level at 20 mph up, but when I got my current one it took me at least a month to adjust. Now I don't notice anything.

[notorious]

Like Tex said get on plane and then back down. First you have to run it with as minimum gear and then with gear to see if weight distribution is the problem. May need to drop the engine one hole, Stainless Props give better performance. Play with your trim more, but defiantly get on plane first then drop down as slow as you want to stay on plane.


I always run a Hydrofoil for low and high speed performance.


http://www.cobramarine.com/cobra_marine_hydrofoil_stabilizer_edge_pro_series. html

[agelesssone]

Bennett Marine® - Trim Tab Kit

Put trim tabs on it.
My 20ft Hydra Sport would wallow trying to get out of the hole with a full tank of gas and five big peoplease on board.
Put the trim tabs on and now it planes out quickly and stays flat while running.

[XxthejuicexX]

Something I have found with my new boat is the bow wanting to ride high when trying to run around 15 to 20 mph, even with the trim down. Has anyone ever tried putting some weight in the front to help keep the nose down ? I mean it planes nicely, but I don't want to have to run 25-30 mph all the time.. any suggestions ?




Texas rig has a great suggestion. I would get more familiar with the boat and learning how it likes to be driven before moving or adding things. Like Texas said mine likes you to hit the hole and get up on plane and then back down. After that it will cruise at 30-40 with no problem.

[JeffsLowe]

You could kill two birds with one stone by taking Salmon Dazes advice from the "Launch" thread. Just get a fat bum to both help launch AND to ride in the bow.

Alternatively, if you cant find a fat bum, just launch at Bryants Grove at Priest, you could get 2 skinny illegal bums for the same sausage biscuit.

[Flatline]

You could kill two birds with one stone by taking Salmon Dazes advice from the "Launch" thread. Just get a fat bum to both help launch AND to ride in the bow.

Alternatively, if you cant find a fat bum, just launch at Bryants Grove at Priest, you could get 2 skinny illegal bums for the same sausage biscuit.




Hahahahaha......... Now that's funny :D


Well if that's the case, how about a lil fat gal... she could have a dual purpose... ballast during the ride and hold the umbrella for shade during those warm days :p

[tkwalker]

Something just doesn't sound right..... Texas-Rig's method is the norm " and I quote:

"If you want to run less than 3/4 throttle just go ahead and punch the throttle as to plane out. After you've planed out Then you throttle back and you should stay on plane without your nose being too high."

Trim buttons and Tachs play a very important part in correct boat response ..My procedure is you tuck the motor down to the transom, then go full open throttle ... This makes the bow to want to actually plow the water at top end...

Then start tapping the trim button up, the bow will rise, watch your tach increase in RPM'S. If you raise it to high the prop will blow out, then tap the down button until the prop bites and this should bring your RPM'S back into the appropriate power curve for your rigs setup.

To run at a slower speed back your throttle off but you will need to start at the same time trimming down by just tapping the button. (do everything in slow increments until you get use to your boat) If it is trimmed to high at a reduced speed it will start to porpoise . So trim down until you take the porpoise motion out of it.

There are number of variables here, Driver and passenger weight, Haven't learned all of the ends and outs of your trim system. The trim system itself... make sure when you are trimmed down that the motor is tucked in and parallel with the transom,(Transoms are usually 16 to 20 degrees and so should the motor, check this on dry land.

In my dealings with boats over many years I have found very few rigs need whale tails especially if you have the HP. But for sure weight should not ever be needed to correct this type of problem.But Jeff's Idea isn't bad LOL..

Flatline, a question, It sounds like maybe your slowing down to a point that the boat is falling off plane... But I really can't understand a 45 deg, angle, trimmed in (down) unless you have your RPM'S to low where you are plowing.

Here is my assumption: you have Hyd. trim, so there is no tilt pin. If it does remove it.

A three blade prop is not causing your problem, four blades are used for applications usually for High HP top end performance they reduce starboard lift do to High torque

Both Merv (Aglesssone) and I use trim tabs in conjunction with our trim system of our motors do to the size and payload of our guide boats, your bass boat should not require these. Look above this post to Sticky: "Memories" and look at pic's of how these were applied.

Flatline, There are some great suggestions listed in this thread. By the way I was thinking the same about the fat bottom gals LOL ... I think what was mentioned earlier in the thread you may need to learn and get use to your new boat, now not to say that some of the fore-mentioned ideas may need to be applied ... Try this method and give us more info, RPM'S, Speed, Trim position etc... We are here to help... TK

[Texas_Rig]

I was on JPP the other day and the wind was blowing so hard I had to trim my motor up so my bow was way up in the air. Lol. That's the only way I could stay dry.

[JeffsLowe]

Hahahahaha......... Now that's funny :D


Well if that's the case, how about a lil fat gal... she could have a dual purpose... ballast during the ride and hold the umbrella for shade during those warm days :p

Then you better buy 2 sausage biscuits (at least).

[tkwalker]

I was on JPP the other day and the wind was blowing so hard I had to trim my motor up so my bow was way up in the air. Lol. That's the only way I could stay dry.

Depending on your boat that could be a pounding experience and you wonder if it is going to hold together.... TK

[Flatline]

Something just doesn't sound right..... Texas-Rig's method is the norm " and I quote:

"If you want to run less than 3/4 throttle just go ahead and punch the throttle as to plane out. After you've planed out Then you throttle back and you should stay on plane without your nose being too high."

Trim buttons and Tachs play a very important part in correct boat response ..My procedure is you tuck the motor down to the transom, then go full open throttle ... This makes the bow to want to actually plow the water at top end...

Then start tapping the trim button up, the bow will rise, watch your tach increase in RPM'S. If you raise it to high the prop will blow out, then tap the down button until the prop bites and this should bring your RPM'S back into the appropriate power curve for your rigs setup.

To run at a slower speed back your throttle off but you will need to start at the same time trimming down by just tapping the button. (do everything in slow increments until you get use to your boat) If it is trimmed to high at a reduced speed it will start to porpoise . So trim down until you take the porpoise motion out of it.

There are number of variables here, Driver and passenger weight, Haven't learned all of the ends and outs of your trim system. The trim system itself... make sure when you are trimmed down that the motor is tucked in and parallel with the transom,(Transoms are usually 16 to 20 degrees and so should the motor, check this on dry land.

In my dealings with boats over many years I have found very few rigs need whale tails especially if you have the HP. But for sure weight should not ever be needed to correct this type of problem.But Jeff's Idea isn't bad LOL..

Flatline, a question, It sounds like maybe your slowing down to a point that the boat is falling off plane... But I really can't understand a 45 deg, angle, trimmed in (down) unless you have your RPM'S to low where you are plowing.

Here is my assumption: you have Hyd. trim, so there is no tilt pin. If it does remove it.

A three blade prop is not causing your problem, four blades are used for applications usually for High HP top end performance they reduce starboard lift do to High torque

Both Merv (Aglesssone) and I use trim tabs in conjunction with our trim system of our motors do to the size and payload of our guide boats, your bass boat should not require these. Look above this post to Sticky: "Memories" and look at pic's of how these were applied.

Flatline, There are some great suggestions listed in this thread. By the way I was thinking the same about the fat bottom gals LOL ... I think what was mentioned earlier in the thread you may need to learn and get use to your new boat, now not to say that some of the fore-mentioned ideas may need to be applied ... Try this method and give us more info, RPM'S, Speed, Trim position etc... We are here to help... TK




You are probably right, I just need to just work with it a little more. I know one thing for sure... and that it doesn't take much trim before it starts blowing out as you put it. I looked at how the motor is mounted and you used the middle bolt holes on the motor. I wonder if the motor is mounted a little too high ? Would 2" make enough of a difference ? She'll jump into a plain with just myself in a instant and it doesn't take very much trim either to adjust for maximum cruise. It that sense, you could say that its well balanced ??? I guess I expected the motor to trim out more to achieve that perfect ride. The boat comes with a trim gauge and it barely moves between all the way down and just before it porpoises.



I remember older fiberglass boats friends would have were able to trim out and shoot rooster tails while cruising across the lake.



In any case, I might be letting off the throttle too quickly and then trying to correct my speed ending up plowing.


I just thought with a 18' boat the nose would stay down a little more then it does..

[tkwalker]

You are probably right, I just need to just work with it a little more. I know one thing for sure... and that it doesn't take much trim before it starts blowing out as you put it. I looked at how the motor is mounted and you used the middle bolt holes on the motor. I wonder if the motor is mounted a little too high ? Would 2" make enough of a difference ? She'll jump into a plain with just myself in a instant and it doesn't take very much trim either to adjust for maximum cruise. It that sense, you could say that its well balanced ??? I guess I expected the motor to trim out more to achieve that perfect ride. The boat comes with a trim gauge and it barely moves between all the way down and just before it porpoises.



I remember older fiberglass boats friends would have were able to trim out and shoot rooster tails while cruising across the lake.



In any case, I might be letting off the throttle too quickly and then trying to correct my speed ending up plowing.


I just thought with a 18' boat the nose would stay down a little more then it does..

Are you talking about the large mounting bolts that go thru the transom?
Two inches is about right off of the top of the transom. The reason for this set up is the anti cavitation plates on your lower unit need to be even with the bottom of the boat..

Now on high performance boats, sometimes people will add jack plates which gives you variable adjustments for top end speed.

This isn't your problem. I think what you need to do is just get out there and familiarize yourself with the boat.. T/T (trim and tilt) doesn't take a lot of movement to change the attitude of the boat. Like I said before watch your tach and just tap the the trim buttons until you have a grasp of it .... <'TK><

[Texas_Rig]

Depending on your boat that could be a pounding experience and you wonder if it is going to hold together.... TK

You are right about that. I think everyone should practice driving a boat in rough water. Bad weather can come out of nowhere and driving a boat can get dangerous very quickly. I will trim my motor up and "ride the ditch" when it gets rough. Getting that nose up in the air can save you from being soaking wet. With the nose up I will zig zag the lake until I can get to safer waters. Riding the ditch and learning when to throttle the motor can make it as easy as possible. I learned by watching a YouTube video of Gerald Swindle teaching how to ride rough water.

[Buccaneer]

Flatline - Are you running a stainless prop? 3 or 4 blade? Is your hull a pad/step hull or does the transom terminate at the dead bottom of the keel? Can you measure the distances from floor to bottom of keel (keel level) and floor to centerline of propshaft (level cavitation plate) and then floor to bottom of cavitation plate? Those numbers could provide some insight into your performance.

[tkwalker]

Flatline - Are you running a stainless prop? 3 or 4 blade? Is your hull a pad/step hull or does the transom terminate at the dead bottom of the keel? Can you measure the distances from floor to bottom of keel (keel level) and floor to centerline of propshaft (level cavitation plate) and then floor to bottom of cavitation plate? Those numbers could provide some insight into your performance.

Buc to give you some idea of Flatline's boat here is a video of a similar rig with the 75 HP... TK
https://youtu.be/vL2Viz3cGdM







.

[Flatline]

Buc to give you some idea of Flatline's boat here is a video of a similar rig with the 75 HP... TK
https://youtu.be/vL2Viz3cGdM
(https://youtu.be/vL2Viz3cGdM)
. (https://youtu.be/vL2Viz3cGdM)


No that is of the Lowe I WAS supposed to buy until I saw its condition...

This is my boat here... Not my video, but identical in every other aspect

https://youtu.be/P8zC4slNc2o

[Buccaneer]

Is that your boat? If so the cavitation plate is too high it appears. Should be 1” or less above the keel line unless you have a jack plate and then your dynamics are different.

[Heiny57]

Tracker usually has their boats set up right from the factory. I don’t think I would change things until you log some hours and get used to your boat.

[tkwalker]

Tracker usually has their boats set up right from the factory. I don’t think I would change things until you log some hours and get used to your boat.

This is usually the case but somewhere in the many posts/threads between this one and Flatline's thread when looking and buying a boat. I just remembered I believe it was said that this is a repower with a 2018 motor on an older boat.

If so it may not have been set up right with the motor exchange. Buccaneer brought up a good question ... Now there is no set height adjustments because all boats and motors are different as well as the installers.

Here is the rule of thumb. Loosen the mounting bolts slightly. Take a straight edge and place it on the bottom of the boat in relationship with the keel and in the proximity of the ANTI caviatation plate ... The plate should be even with the bottom of the boat +/- 1/4 inch.You will need to trim the motor to where the plates and the straight edge are parallel ... Tighten the bolts and this has put you in the ball park... And for sure help any performance issues... <'TK><:)

[Flatline]

This is usually the case but somewhere in the many posts/threads between this one and Flatline's thread when looking and buying a boat. I just remembered I believe it was said that this is a repower with a 2018 motor on an older boat.

If so it may not have been set up right with the motor exchange. Buccaneer brought up a good question ... Now there is no set height adjustments because all boats and motors are different as well as the installers.

Here is the rule of thumb. Loosen the mounting bolts slightly. Take a straight edge and place it on the bottom of the boat in relationship with the keel and in the proximity of the ANTI caviatation plate ... The plate should be even with the bottom of the boat +/- 1/4 inch.You will need to trim the motor to where the plates and the straight edge are parallel ... Tighten the bolts and this has put you in the ball park... And for sure help any performance issues... <'TK><:)




No your are thinking about someone else...



My boat is brand new, well sort of. It was 5 mos old when I bought it from the guy 2 weeks ago. I'll take pictures when weather allows. But as it stands its as it is from the factory. I just happen to noticed that the trim mount has 4 bolt slots and there is still one more bolt hole where I could lower the motor another 1" or 2.



I'm not going to mess with it at this point, I just didn't care for how it handled in rough water.. More than likely just my lack of experience on ho to operate the boat.

Btw I did watch those videos on rough water driving and I really had to look to find waters like I had to deal with on my second day. What some of those guys were claiming as rough water was just the chop... I had 2' high swells and 20-30 mph winds I was fighting... I did see a couple mistakes I was making though, so I did learn a few things.. All is good guys.. Thanks

[tkwalker]

No your are thinking about someone else...



My boat is brand new, well sort of. It was 5 mos old when I bought it from the guy 2 weeks ago. I'll take pictures when weather allows. But as it stands its as it is from the factory. I just happen to noticed that the trim mount has 4 bolt slots and there is still one more bolt hole where I could lower the motor another 1" or 2.



I'm not going to mess with it at this point, I just didn't care for how it handled in rough water.. More than likely just my lack of experience on ho to operate the boat.

Btw I did watch those videos on rough water driving and I really had to look to find waters like I had to deal with on my second day. What some of those guys were claiming as rough water was just the chop... I had 2' high swells and 20-30 mph winds I was fighting... I did see a couple mistakes I was making though, so I did learn a few things.. All is good guys.. Thanks

In any case I just made a very good deal on a 2018 Bass Tracker 175 in excellent shape for almost the same money and only about 20 hr on a 75 hp Merc (YaY)


a yr of shopping has finally come to an end...


I read a new 75 HP with only 20 hrs on it, I missed the New Bass Tracker in excellent shape, I would hope so being new. I didn't link the two together new boat and 20 hrs.... Any way keep at it and if you still have problems take it back to BT and tell them your problem after you have mastered the T/T and feel comfortable with it ... <'TK><:)

[Flatline]

In any case I just made a very good deal on a 2018 Bass Tracker 175 in excellent shape for almost the same money and only about 20 hr on a 75 hp Merc (YaY)


a yr of shopping has finally come to an end...


I read a new 75 HP with only 20 hrs on it, I missed the New Bass Tracker in excellent shape, I would hope so being new. I didn't link the two together new boat and 20 hrs.... Any way keep at it and if you still have problems take it back to BT and tell them your problem after you have mastered the T/T and feel comfortable with it ... <'TK><:)




I can see how you were confused and my post does give the impression of jumping around, but I assure you I haven't lost my mind.. LOL


I wanted the 2016 Lowes, had my heart set on it... until I seen the hull and all the scratches and pissing paint. I pretty much gave up at this point. I couldn't invest 13K on a beat up boat..



Then pops up this 2019, but the guy was advertising it as a 2018 with about 20 hrs on it. I called BP and spoke with a salesman after noticing that the interior didn't match the 2018. They assured me that it was a 2019 model.



When I did the deal and got the tittle, it showed he had purchased it July 17, 2018, but it was for a 2019 model boat. He put it up for sale just before Christmas and I agreed to buy it just after Christmas and paid for it shortly afterwards. So yea I was told it was a 18 when in fact it was a brand new 19.


Sorry for the confusion..



And not knowing that much about these boats, is why I was asking if I could throw some weight up front because with my fishing by myself, the batteries and a full tank of fuel all in the back... if adding weight would help with the balance of the boat, but I do know that a boat will handle better if balanced properly. I mean why else are people relocating their batteries up front ?

[TNBronzeback]

Do what i do and you will have no issues:
1-launch boat.
2-start casting at the launch.
3- limit out in no time.
4- load boat back up. Never have to worry about weight distribution again.
Lol.
Im sure there are plenty of guys here, myself included who would be happy to meet you at the ramp and cruise around with ya to help ya out to get you on track.
A few shady guys that i personally know of that you should stay away from are: Agelessone, Skillet and XxJuicexX. While on the outside they seem like nice guys, are truly rookies who want nothing but the company of another man. Im not one to judge by no means, but if you dont care for that kind of action, steer clear of them characters. lol
Congrats on the new rig buddy, you will be running 100% before ya know it.

[XxthejuicexX]

Do what i do and you will have no issues:
1-launch boat.
2-start casting at the launch.
3- limit out in no time.
4- load boat back up. Never have to worry about weight distribution again.
Lol.
Im sure there are plenty of guys here, myself included who would be happy to meet you at the ramp and cruise around with ya to help ya out to get you on track.
A few shady guys that i personally know of that you should stay away from are: Agelessone, Skillet and XxJuicexX. While on the outside they seem like nice guys, are truly rookies who want nothing but the company of another man. Im not one to judge by no means, but if you dont care for that kind of action, steer clear of them characters. lol
Congrats on the new rig buddy, you will be running 100% before ya know it.


We've spent a few days and a night in your boat together chief..........





The best thing is time on the water figuring it out. Each boat can be different. My grandfathers pro craft wants the trim left down until you are out of the hole and on plane and then you can start to trim up to gain speed. My boat likes the you to start trimming up as soon as you step on the gas and the nose comes down from the initial push.

[ddyyak]

I owned a tracker 175 before I bought my Lund. In the weather conditions you described it’s going to be rough. Semi v aluminum boats have a hard time planeing smooth when waves are that rough. You safe option is to slow down and navigate to take waves as straight on as possible. In calmer water the tracker was very smooth.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[agelesssone]

Do what i do and you will have no issues:
1-launch boat.
2-start casting at the launch.
3- limit out in no time.
4- load boat back up. Never have to worry about weight distribution again.
Lol.
Im sure there are plenty of guys here, myself included who would be happy to meet you at the ramp and cruise around with ya to help ya out to get you on track.
A few shady guys that i personally know of that you should stay away from are: Agelessone, Skillet and XxJuicexX. While on the outside they seem like nice guys, are truly rookies who want nothing but the company of another man. Im not one to judge by no means, but if you dont care for that kind of action, steer clear of them characters. lol
Congrats on the new rig buddy, you will be running 100% before ya know it.

And to think that I actually used to like you....to put me in the same sentence/class as skillet and or XxJuicexX (who in the hell puts out a moniker like XxJuicexX?, caint he just put down his real name, RENALDO, OR WHATEVER IT IS?) has made me come to realize that you ain't nothin but a low life transplanted Yankee from New Jersey or Maine or somewhere where they don't even have carp and drum, your favorite fish, so you come down here, cain't even catch a fish of any sorts, and try to lump us professional, really good fishermen, with the likes of those dregs of the lake!

I'm offended, hurt, stabbed in the back, disgusted with your mindless musings and refuse to associate myself with person of your ilk. (grab a dictionary son, cause I'm sure with your limited vocabulary, you are as lost as an illiterate hillbilly at Stanford University!) BTW that's a high falutin universuty someres.

Don't you never fatmouth me agin on social media! I KNOW WHERE YOU RESIDE!!!!

[XxthejuicexX]

TK, I need to change my screen name please. Renaldo if you could.

[FishAddict]

Flatline, I just read through this, it has been a while since logging in. The only thing I can add to this now is my boat is a Nitro, different but still a Tracker product. These rigs tend to not need a lot of tweaking from the factory setups. It does sound like your trim gauge needs adjusting, it should move from the low end up past half way when up to top speed planed out. All the advice on taking off with the engine tucked, and trimming on plane are things I figured out on mine after playing around with it. Also the advice of getting up on consistent plane, then backing down is also spot on. One add'l thing is to look for your rig's sweet spot for efficiency. Mine is around 4200 rpms. It is comfortable, and I get the best fuel consumption there. Yours should be way better being a newer rig and I'm assuming a 4 stroke too which will be quiet and very good on fuel. I honestly think you are over thinking this. Go out there and run that thing, practice on looking for the ideal way to get off of plane and run it. Then if you still aren't happy, try to address it. I'll tell you I can't come anywhere close to operating at 20 MPH on plane, it is just a range that my rig won't stay on plane at.

[Flatline]

Flatline, I just read through this, it has been a while since logging in. The only thing I can add to this now is my boat is a Nitro, different but still a Tracker product. These rigs tend to not need a lot of tweaking from the factory setups. It does sound like your trim gauge needs adjusting, it should move from the low end up past half way when up to top speed planed out. All the advice on taking off with the engine tucked, and trimming on plane are things I figured out on mine after playing around with it. Also the advice of getting up on consistent plane, then backing down is also spot on. One add'l thing is to look for your rig's sweet spot for efficiency. Mine is around 4200 rpms. It is comfortable, and I get the best fuel consumption there. Yours should be way better being a newer rig and I'm assuming a 4 stroke too which will be quiet and very good on fuel. I honestly think you are over thinking this. Go out there and run that thing, practice on looking for the ideal way to get off of plane and run it. Then if you still aren't happy, try to address it. I'll tell you I can't come anywhere close to operating at 20 MPH on plane, it is just a range that my rig won't stay on plane at.




Very interesting reply, thanks and you as well as others are correct. I've never been in a Tracker before, always larger fiberglass boats.



You mentioned something about adjusting the trim gauge... Can you and how ?

[Heiny57]

I have a 185 tracker and I have found that when the winds are 20 to 30 mph I leave it in the garage. LOL. A light aluminum boat doesn’t do well with wind/waves.

[Flatline]

I have a 185 tracker and I have found that when the winds are 20 to 30 mph I leave it in the garage. LOL. A light aluminum boat doesn’t do well with wind/waves.




Trust me I hear you... it was just slight breeze when I went out. It was when that front with the high winds that pushed thru late afternoon last week that I got caught out on the lake.

[FishAddict]

Very interesting reply, thanks and you as well as others are correct. I've never been in a Tracker before, always larger fiberglass boats.



You mentioned something about adjusting the trim gauge... Can you and how ?


I don't know how to adjust it, but surely you can. I'd call the folks at the service center that helped you out. They should know.

[tkwalker]

I don't know how to adjust it, but surely you can. I'd call the folks at the service center that helped you out. They should know.

The sending unit to the gauge is located on the trim unit ..Usually on the pivot but depending on the motor, model and year it could be elsewhere on the trim ...

But it is easy to check on the trailer .. tuck your motor all the way down if the gauge shows max down great, then raise your motor up (NOTE: trim only not Tilt On some the tilt and trim travel is different ) if you have that option, some of the newer smaller t/t with one cylinder won't) Basically you can get a ball park indication if the gauge is following the sending unit.
<'TK>< PS... When the prop blows out I would say your gauge will indicate 75% plus UP.. Also watch your tach.